Understanding Derma Peel: What It Is And How It Works

Why are skin peels trending again? Chemical peels aka derma peels aka exfoliating peels aka AHA BHA peels are in trend again. From their huge popularity around the lockdown period in 2020-21, we saw exfoliators and skin peels lose their position to sunscreens and retinol. But right now, peels are trending again, both as DIY peels that one can do at home and advanced, higher-level peels at your dermatologist’s clinic. The latter are deeper and need clinical support for the downtime, but the former can easily be done in the comfort of your home. In light of the same, we spoke to Dr Renita Rajan, founder of CHOSEN by Dermatology to understand the concept of derma peel and how it works.

What Do Derma Peels Do?

Dr Renita said, “The top layer of our skin contains skin cells called keratinocytes attached through delicate connections. These cells are being made and shed off periodically, and contain more pigment and other impurities from the external exposure to pollution, right at the surface.”

Physical scrubbing can manually remove the top layer. Still, in the process of scrubbing, the skin’s pigment cells get activated and the skin becomes irritated, causing increased pigmentation and roughness, respectively. This is a unique injury response in the skin of colour, such as ours.

Benefits Of Derma Peels

Peels are a great way to get rid of make-up residues, sunscreen residues and pollution-related toxins on the skin, the latter has been especially linked to pigmentary conditions like melasma.

Peels work as chemical exfoliators, where the delicate attachments that keep the cells together are gently dissolved causing the keratinocytes at the top to detach, revealing lighter, brighter skin below. This process also stimulates collagen production, resulting in younger tighter skin, over time.

However, if the peel is too harsh, it can penetrate deeper than the top layer and cause burns. If the person scrubs or rubs the peel in, it can cause patchy results and sensitive skin. Overdoing peels thins out the skin too much, and then you will find it difficult to tolerate other active ingredients as well.

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How To Use Peels Effectively

Here are a few ways to use derma peels effectively:

Peels are very effective but they can also cause skin sensitivity when left on the skin for long periods. This is why it makes sense to have short contact peels because the process of chemical exfoliation is usually completed in a matter of minutes.

In other words, stay away from toners containing exfoliating agents like glycolic, salicylic or lactic acid, and use home DIY peels that are specifically formulated to provide clinical-grade results.

Do not exfoliate every day. The skin has its cycle of growth and exfoliation, and we are only using chemical peels as a tool to modulate this process, get rid of pollution-related substances that adhere or adsorb to the top layer of the skin, and get rid of older keratinocytes with their high melanin content. Four days a week for low-intensity peels, and once a week to once in two weeks for more advanced home peels, is good enough.

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Exfoliate on and off, say on for 8 weeks and off for 8 weeks. This will help stimulate collagen production and support an even skin tone, at the same time allowing the skin to recover between peeling sessions.

Chemical peels are a great part of your skincare routine, but, speak to your dermatologist, who will suggest the best peels for you, either in a clinic or in the comfort of your own home.

Image Courtsey: Freepik